Our Puppy Care Sheet
Treat your new puppy as you would a new born baby. We recommend that
you try to make the first few days together with you puppy as calm as
possible, remember this is a very traumatic time for your puppy. A puppy
will play until it drops. It may play so much that it is too tired to eat,
especially be aware of the amount of time children play with your puppy.

Beware of any changes in your puppies stool, stress can trigger Coccidia.  
I feed my dogs the RAW DIET in a kibble form. My puppies are fed Canine
Caviar kibble and canned food including their treats.

if you plan on changing your pup over to a new food, then do so gradually.  
I suggest it because this is one of the finest foods you can feed your pup
but Some but not all puppies may need to be supplemented with Nutri-Cal
for the first few weeks. Be sure they eat every 6 hours.
concerned about providing the very best for their puppy.  This Puppy Manual is a guide to provide you
with valuable information to help get you off to a great start!  

Your new puppy has received optimum care from birth.  All of my puppies have been raised with the
proper food and have been socialized in order to be mentally stable and ready for the transition to your
home.

The puppies have all been seen by a Vet and had their current vaccinations and health check ups. You
need to make an appointment with your local Vet within 3 BUSINESS DAYS to have the puppy checked
out by your Vet.  

~ Choosing a Veterinarian ~
It is important to have an initial checkup after obtaining your puppy, so selecting a veterinarian before
your new puppy comes home can save time.   If you don't have a veterinarian, friends or family
members with pets can make recommendations.

~ Preference ~
The most important factor is to meet the veterinarian and see the facilities.  Are the veterinarian and staff
friendly and helpful?

~ Proximity ~  
Is the veterinarian's office close to your home? This is not only an issue of your convenience, but will
allow you to get there quickly in case of an emergency.

~ Hours ~  
In the first few months, you will be visiting the veterinarian often if the puppy is not fully vaccinated, so
it is important to make sure your vet's hours of operation coincide with your schedule.  Many vets have
extended evening or weekend hours to accommodate your work schedule.

~ Emergencies ~
Does the veterinarian answer after-hours emergency calls, or does he refer emergencies to a local
emergency clinic?  How far away is the referral clinic?

~ Making Your Home Safe ~   
Just as with a baby, you will need to make sure the whole house is safe from anything the puppy could
get into.  By getting down at the puppy's level you can assess if there are any exposed electrical cords
that could be chewed.  Is there any place that your puppy could get stuck or maybe fall?  By puppy-
proofing now, you can avoid a lot of heartache later.  Will your puppy be spending time outdoors
unsupervised?   Look around your yard.  Are there holes or gaps in your fence where your puppy could
escape?  Are there chemical fertilizers, herbicides and insecticides within his reach?  
What about poisonous plants?

~ Puppy's First Things ~
Basic equipment needed before puppy's arrival:
Food and Water Bowls:  Stainless steel food and water bowls are durable and do not rust, break or chip.  
Puppies that are teething will chew up anything in sight, which can be a problem when using plastic.  
Stainless steel is also more sanitary than plastic because plastic scratches and bacteria can set it.  Make
sure anything you buy does not come from China as most if not all of their products are made with
inferior substances including stainless steel.

~ Collar and leash ~
I prefer the harness types as they are safer on puppy's neck.  Collars are to be only used for bling or tags.

~ Grooming ~  
You will need a Comb and Pin Brush.  Grooming your puppy every day teaches him to like being
handled by people.  The best time to do this is when the puppy is sleepy, as he will enjoy your gentle
touch.  http://www.chrissystems.com is where I get my brushes.
Puppy Toys:  Rubber toys are almost indestructible and my last years.  Choose a smaller size for young
puppies (helpful during teething).  Make sure it is a safe toy!  Squeaky toys and balls can be used when
you are teaching the puppy new obedience commands.

~
At Home Together ~
Make sure everyone that comes in contact with the puppy knows the dangers from a puppy falling.  
Never leave puppy unsupervised where it can fall.  People handling puppy on couch need to be aware
puppy will try to squirm and may fall.  A few things that could happen if puppy was to fall : hit head
causing seizer, break leg, blow out its knees, are just a few examples of the dangers that could happen to
an unsupervised pup.  

~ Introducing Children ~  
Children don't often realize that they need to be very careful with a small puppy.  A responsible adult
should always be there to supervise when children are playing with or meeting a puppy.  When you
bring your puppy home, it's always a good idea to have the children sit down and let the puppy come to
them.  Explain that they should not scare the puppy by moving quickly or making loud noises.  They
shouldn't rush at the puppy or try to pick the puppy up.  Explain that, while sitting on the floor, the
puppy will probably climb on them anyway.

~ Introducing other dogs ~
Try introducing the dogs in a neutral area.  Make sure both dogs are supervised and they can be
controlled by you.  Let them sniff and investigate each other.  Do not yell at the other dog if he doesn't
react the way you want him to.  Give him plenty of time to get used to the puppy.  Dogs have their own
rules, and will certainly let your young puppy know what the rules are.  They will do this in the same
way that the pup's mother helped him to learn by growling.

Upon arriving at home, put your puppy in an exercise pen with a piddle pad.  The puppy is already used
to using the pads.  I have provided 2 links to the kind of exercise pens that I like.  Wal-Mart puppy pen
with door and Wal-Mart puppy exercise play yard.

The pet bed should be placed inside the exercise pen along with a bowl of food and fresh water.  Give
your new puppy a chance to relieve itself.  The drive home has been stressful for your puppy.  Give your
puppy some Nutri-Cal (a high caloric feeding supplement).  Also give it a chance to get to know its new
surroundings.  When you feel the puppy is ready to leave the exercise pen to get to know you better,
make sure you have blocked off the area you will be in so that your puppy does not have free roam of
your home.  Your puppy needs to be confined to small areas.  This will make housebreaking faster.

Whenever you are unable to be with your puppy, it should be placed in the exercise pen.  DO NOT give
your new puppy the freedom of more than the exercise pen.  Remember that a puppy of 12 weeks has an
attention span of about 1 second and if the piddle pad is not clearly in sight, it will forget where it is.  If
you are going to be gone for the day (such as at work) make sure your puppy has a bowl of food and
fresh water.  Can you imagine leaving a three year old child alone in your house?

Don't be in a hurry to allow your pup total freedom all over the house.  It may take months or even a
year to reach that goal.  Confinement in an area of the house where you normally spend time will prevent
many housebreaking and chewing accidents.  When you are in the kitchen, you cannot see that the puppy
has to "go" if he is in the bedroom.  You can not see the puppy chewing on the living room carpet while
you are busy making beds.  Let your dog explore his new home, but only under your supervision.  Block
off your puppy's special area with baby gates.  If you must be away from the house or can't supervise
the special area, put the puppy in his crate.  Reinforcing acceptable behavior often just means preventing
misbehavior!

This is an exciting time for you, but it can also be a frightening time of adjustment for your new puppy.  
Some things to remember the puppy feels lost and alone as it is leaving the security from mother and
littermates, and experiencing a multitude of new sights, sounds and smells.  The first night at your home
the puppy may call, cry, howl, to the others as if to say” Come and get me” He’s waiting for one of the
pack to answer.  When they don’t he tries again.  You’ll notice that the first night is the worst.  During the
day your puppy may either be a little nervous of you, or it may follow you right away.  New puppies
should not be taken out with you and shown off to all your friends for the first week.  He/she needs to
get to know and trust their new mom or dad and not be upset by strangers wanting to hold or play with
them.

After the puppy has become adjusted to your home and after he has his rabies vaccination I recommend
that you introducing the puppy to parks, lakes, pet stores, etc. The more people and places your puppy
experiences, the more well adjusted he will be as an adult.   

The temporary teeth fall out easily and are often not found (the pup sometimes swallows them).  
Occasionally, temporary teeth persist along-side the adult teeth and may need to be extracted in order to
prevent misplacement and decay of the adult teeth.  If your pet will be spayed or neutered this would be
a great time to take out any remaining puppy teeth.  As pup matures to adult your veterinarian will let
you know when it is a good time to schedule a tarter cleaning appointment.
Teething Phases:  Temporary teeth eruption 1 month, Permanent teeth eruption 4 months, Permanent
Canine teeth 5-6 months.

~ Health Care ~
~ Vaccinations ~  
Your new puppy will arrive with some or all vaccinations.  Puppies will receive its first vaccine around 8
to 9 weeks of age depending on their size/weight.  Pups need a series of 3 vaccinations (not to include
the Rabies vaccine) spaced out every 3 to 4 weeks.  
It is important that only ONE vaccination be given per office visit.  Toy breeds react differently than
larger breeds.  A full rabies shot is 4 times the dose for a full grown Newfoundland.  The same shot is
given to a 160lb dog as a 2lb dog.  It does not make sense so please be aware of any reactions that your
pup may exhibit.  DO NOT GIVE THIRD PUPPY SHOT, RABIES SHOT, BORDATELLA, LYME
VACCINE, ETC. AT THE SAME TIME!!!  ONLY ONE SHOT AT A TIME.  NO EXCEPTIONS!

Distemper shots must be 3 to 4 weeks apart and 1 month or more apart from the Rabies vaccination.  I do
not care what your vet says it is too much on a toy breed to be overdosed by too many vaccinations at
once. I CANNOT STRESS THIS ENOUGH!  IF THIS VACCINATION PROTOCOL IS NOT FOLLOWED
THIS HEALTH GUARANTEE IS NULL AND VOID!!!!

If your puppy has a reaction to the vaccination, you want to be sure you know which one it was.  This
means that the DHP-PV and the Rabies shot should be given a more than a month apart.

~ Spaying/Neutering ~
If you have adopted your new puppy on a spay/neuter contract.  This means that you must have your
female puppy spayed or your male puppy neutered.  This puppy is not to be used for breeding and is to
spayed or neutered.  This is important to have done, not only to prevent unwanted litters, but to avoid
having to deal with your female going into heat twice a year and getting a uterine infection which can be
fatal.  Un-neutered males mark their territory inside your home and can become sexually aggressive.  
There are health reasons as well.  In males, neutering decreases the chance of developing hernias,
diseases of the prostate, and it eliminates the chance of developing testicular cancer.  In females, spaying
decreases the incidence of breast cancer and uterine infections.  The probability goes down to almost zero
if done before the first heat cycle.   It also eliminates the chance of developing pyometra (a potentially
fatal infection of the uterus).  Along with these risks your dog will no longer have the urge to roam
looking for a mate.  This will reduce the risk of it running away and/or being hit by a car.  They will have
a lower chance of contracting contagious diseases and get into fewer fights.

~ Health Danger Signs ~
Despite the excellent care you are giving your new puppy, it still may get sick.  You should know your
puppy well enough by this time to immediately notice any changes in its behavior.  The following are
some signs to look for:
Refusal to eat for no apparent reason
Increase in sleep, not wanting to play, lethargic behavior
Dull coat, clouded eyes, dry nose
Constant sneezing, coughing, drooling, or gagging
Frequent scratching or shaking its head
Diarrhea
**Serious Signs**
Blood in stool
Gums turn white
When skin is gently pinched, it does not spring back, but instead forms a tent
Pupils are extremely narrow or wide
~ HYPOGLYCEMIA /LOW BLOOD SUGAR ~
Common problem with all toy breed puppies...
Easily treatable in the early stages...
Fatal if allowed to progress...
Glucose is the “simple” sugar that the body uses for fuel to run its various functions.  Table sugar, or
sucrose, is made up of two simple sugars, glucose and fructose, and can be broken down rapidly after
eating.  All sugars are carbohydrates.  Grains are also carbohydrates but are considered “complex”
carbohydrates because they have many more components and take longer to be broken down.  The body
uses glucose as its primary energy sources fatty Acids, for example, which the body accesses by breaking
glucose in the blood is lower than normal, the brain function is the first to show signs.  The liver is
responsible for manufacturing glucose and for storing it in a usable form, for release into the blood
stream as needed.  Muscle tissues store some of the important materials used in this process.  Therefore,
a serious liver abnormality or insufficient muscle mass may make it difficult for the body to keep its
blood sugar properly regulated.

~ CAUSE ~
Hypoglycemia can occur without warning when a puppy goes to a new home, misses a meal, or does not
eat full meals.  Other reasons could be they can’t eat a lot at one time, and literally run out of fuel
quickly, being chilled, or even exhaustion from too much play may cause the body to use up more sugar
than is available. Even a brief period of fasting in a puppy can trigger a hypoglycemic attack.

~ SYMPTOMS ~
Signs of an attack are depression, weakness, confusion, wobbly gait, frothing or drooling from the mouth
sometimes even a seizure and drain of blood from the head.  The head appears to be tilted to either side
and can not hold it up.  The neck appears stiff and in a locked position, the body may soon appear the
same way.  The teeth may be clamped tightly together.  A check of the gums will show them to be pale,
almost a grayish white in color rather than a healthy bright pink.  
Puppy slows down, Acts listless.  Puppy may begin to tremble or shiver, trembling is followed by a
blank stare.  Puppy may then lie on his side.
The puppy can go into shock, convulsions, seizures, or coma which can result in death if not cared for
promptly and properly.  Its body will be limp and lifeless. Body temperature will be below normal.

~ HOW ARE SMALL BREEDS MORE PRONE? ~
Puppies of very small and toy breeds of dogs have characteristics that make them more prone to the
development of Transient Juvenile Hypoglycemia, which is brought on by fasting.  Pups of any breed are
more likely to develop hypoglycemia than adults, because their skeletal muscle mass and liver size are
smaller and brain size, larger, in proportion to the rest of their body.  Therefore, there is less adequate
glucose in order to function.  In small toy breeds, this discrepancy is more pronounced.  Even a brief
period of fasting in a toy breed puppy can trigger a hypoglycemic attack.  Puppies will precursors or
glucose in its stored form (body fat).

~ TREATMENT ~
Once a puppy’s sugar drops you must act fast! The blood levels of glucose must be restored
immediately!  DO NOT HESITATE YOUR PUPPY’S LIFE IS AT RISK!  I use the Forti-Cal or Nutri-Cal;
they give quick results and gets into the bloodstream within seconds with a 99% utilization rate.  When
giving a dose it is about ¾ tsp per 5 lbs of body weight.  
                                                










If you do not have it on hand, then mix Karo Syrup on the tongue or rubbed on its gums. If jaw is locked
try to get it open and get it as far back on tongue as possible and rub all on gums.  You can also syringe it
into the pup’s mouth.  Get a heating pad or heating blanket and slowly warm the puppy to proper body
temperature.  If the puppy responds all is well.  Feed it a quality canned moist food right away! Monitor
the puppy to be sure that the condition does not recur.  Try to eliminate the stress that caused the
episode.  
If the puppy does not improve within 10 minutes, contact your vet immediately!!  This is not something
that can wait until the vet opens the following morning!  If you do not have treatment for the low sugar
on hand you need to get it right away and keep it in stock at all times as you never know when an attack
will happen.   Also keep a can of moist food instead of dry, as puppy will be too weak to chew the dry.

~ Common Health Problems ~
Diarrhea:  Possible causes: wrong diet, or sudden change in diet, bacteria, viruses, worms, parasites,
nervousness, infection, poisoning.
Constipation:  Possible causes: not enough water, stress.
Ear Infections:  Signs of an ear infection: excessive head shaking, tilting the head, constant scratching the
ears, increased secretion of ear wax.

~ Internal Parasites ~
Signs of Round worms: bloating, hiccupping, lack of appetite, convulsions, apathy

Signs of Tapeworms: weight loss, muscle cramps, dragging its rear end along the ground (may also be a
sign that anal glands need expressing).

Signs of Hookworms: severe anemia resulting to pale gums, dull coat, generalized weakness or lethargy,
and considerable weight loss.

Signs of Whipworms: weight loss, abdominal pain, dehydration, and anemia.  Stools may be watery or
bloody.

Signs of Giardia: These microscopic parasites attach themselves to the intestinal wall and the damage
causes an acute (sudden-onset) foul-smelling diarrhea. The stool may range from soft to watery, often
has a greenish tinge to it, and occasionally contains blood. Infected dogs tend to have excess mucus in the
feces. Vomiting may occur in some cases. The signs may persist for several weeks and gradual weight
loss may become apparent.
"The disease is not usually life threatening unless the dogs' immune system is immature or
immunocompromised."  The diarrhea may be intermittent. Most dogs do not have a fever but may be
less active. The disease is not usually life threatening unless the dogs' immune system is immature or
immunocompromised.

Signs of Coccidia:
This is an "opportunist protozoon" that lives in the bowels of all dogs. Did you understand that? ALL
DOGS carry coccidia. But something has got to weaken the immune system of an animal for the protozoa
to have an opportunity to take hold and start multiplying. That "something " is usually stress of one kind
or another. A loose, stinky stool that can even have streaks of bloody mucus in it usually accompanies
coccidia. Some Vets will explain coccidia to their clients by saying the animal is loaded with parasites.
This is sometimes interpreted by that client that the animal has worms. Coccidia is not exactly a parasite
but can be just as hard to get rid of. A daily supply of yogurt prevents coccidia from getting a foothold as
it keeps a good balance of bacteria in the G. I. tract. So long as good bacteria exist in an ample supply in
the gut, coccidia can not grow. Coccidia is shed in the stool like a virus. If the animal is not shedding it
when a stool This is an "opportunist protozoon" that lives in the bowels of all dogs. Did you immune
system of an animal for the protozoa to have an opportunity to take hold and start multiplying. That
"something " is usually stress of one kind or another. A loose, stinky stool that can even have streaks of
bloody mucus in it usually accompanies coccidia. Some Vets will explain coccidia to their clients by
saying the animal is loaded with parasites. This is sometimes interpreted by that client that the animal
has worms. Coccidia is not exactly a parasite but can be just as hard to get rid of. A daily supply of
yogurt prevents coccidia from getting a foothold as it keeps a good balance of bacteria in the G. I. tract.
So long as good bacteria exist in an ample supply in the gut, coccidia can not grow. Coccidia is shed in
the stool like a virus. If the animal is not shedding it when a stool sample is taken, the animal can be
misdiagnosed as being  free of the protozoa. If your puppy is put on antibiotics of any sort, feed yogurt
to replenish the good bacteria that is killed off by the antibiotic. It will in no way affect the antibiotic from
completing its job but may save your animal from secondary infections caused by an imbalance of good
bacteria. When coccidia does exist in the G. I. tract of your puppy, it can easily spread up through the
system and into the lungs and if unchecked, it can cause pneumonia and eventually death. The first signs
of coccidia is usually a lack of eating properly accompanied by a loose stinky stool and sometimes
escalating into bouts of hypoglycemia. Coccidia can be transmitted to humans if hands are not washed
and contaminated utensils are handled improperly. Coccidia should never be allowed to progress to a
point that the puppy's life is threatened. If your puppy shows signs of this disease, immediately seek
professional advice and treatment,.  Usually Albon is given.
Your puppy should also be wormed continuously each month as outbreaks may occur or reoccur.  If
your puppy has long hair please remember to keep his bottom shaved or trimmed. Some times the stool
can get caught in the hair and keep your puppy from being able to go potty.  This can cause serious
problems and even death.  
All diarrheas have the potential to be a dangerous health problem, especially in puppies. Left
untreated, diarrhea can lead to severe dehydration, vomiting, lethargy and even death.
In puppies, signs of infection typically appear between the ages of four and twelve weeks of age,
becoming more prevalent during times of stress (i.e. weaning, going to a new home, etc.)

~  Treatments for Coccidia, Giardia and Kennel Cough!
These are 3 common things that can happen in young puppies,due to underdeveloped immune systems.  
All 3 are easy to treat and does not mean your puppy is unhealthy.  We treat and vaccinate for these but
your puppy still can get it.  Stress also plays a role with these conditions.  We have done everything
possible to help insure this doesn't happen, but yet it still can.

Treatments for Giardiasis in dogs.
This information is taken straight out of the Vet Medical Manual.
Drug Name Trade Name Dose Rate Duration of Treatment
Metronidazole Flagyl ~  11.5 to 15 mg/lb BID** 5 days
Fenbendazole Safe-Guard or Panacur*** 22.5 to 25 mg/lb once daily 3 days
*Metro one pill will treat 15 pounds,smaller dogs or puppies will have to cut in half or fourths .Really  
tiny puppies I suggest Safe-guard (Fenbendazole) first then once 3-4 pounds use Metronidazole.
*Panacur sometimes makes the tinies sick to their tummies or low sugar always give some yogurt before
worming to settle tummies.
*Goat Safegaurd (Fenbendazole) at Farm stores:Dosage 1/2 cc equals 2 pounds.

~  Yogurt can save your pups life! ~
Plain yogurt can literally save your puppy's life.  This should be fed to your puppy a couple of times a
day along with its normal diet. Please occurs when you take a new puppy out of its natural environment.
Stress kills off the good bacteria in the G. I. tract. When anything occurs out of the ordinary, it is stressful.
Worming, shots, shipping, and riding all create stress for small animals. Plain yogurt culture puts the
good bacteria back into the system so you will have a healthy puppy. So feed them all they want for the
first couple of days until they adjust to the new environment. Yogurt can be force fed with a syringe in
situations where your puppy has stopped eating and s hows signs of being hypoglycemic. Chicken baby
food also is good to use to entice a puppy to eat!

~ Feeding ~
Water:  You need to make sure your puppy has access to fresh water at all times.  It is good to add about
1 cap full of Organic Apple Cider Vinegar to water to help dog’s breath and is very good for their
immune system.
The water bowl should be cleaned daily using very hot water and dish detergent to prevent the build up
of bacteria.
Food:  Your puppy has been eating Canine Caviar ”Chicken & Pearl Millet" ALS... All life stages.    When
puppy reaches a decent weight, I alternate Canine Caviar proteins.  One bag chicken, then lamb, then
venison, etc.  The Adult Lamb has less protein which is better for small breed dogs.  If this is not
available in your area another good holistic food is Blue Buffalo puppy Freedom Grain Free.
Picky eater or stressed dog or puppy I would suggest in addition to the Canine Caviar using moist food
like  "Blue Buffalo Puppy Freedom Grain Free or Wellness canned puppy. They are nice Holistic moist
foods.

~ Information from Canine Caviar ~  
Canine Caviar is different from every other pet food on the market today.  We use raw dehydrated food
in a dry kibble.  Our Eco-Friendly True Holistic diets quickly settle digestive upsets, reduce itching,
scratching, shedding and hotspots; while addressing health concerns like kidney disease, liver disease,
heart disease, diabetes, cancer and cholesterol.  Pearl millet lowers the glycemic index, which allows the
animal to utilize the energy more evenly.  Pearl millet is highly nutritious, non-glutinous, non-acid
forming, extremely digestible, beneficial to the stomach, spleen and pancreas, and considered one of the
least allergenic ingredients available.  Millet and the chlorophyll from alfalfa and parsley act as a natural
breath sweetener.  Sustaining ingredients include flaxseed, canola oil, borage oil, primrose oil, coconut oil
and white fish for proper Omega 3:6 fatty acid balance, alfalfa and kelp for a healthy stomach garlic for
the immune system, yucca for hip and joint support, chicory root and papaya for a healthy digestive
system, peppermint and parsley for a healthy circulatory system, rose hips for added vitamin C, and
lecithin for better absorption of the fats and proteins.  All of the formulas contain NO wheat, corn, soy or
chemical preservatives.  All diets are free of cooked fruits and vegetables as they spike the glycemic
index and increase the risk of diabetes.
For coupons and more information see www.caninecaviar.com

Over feeding your puppy will result in an overweight puppy.  You should check regularly to make sure
you are feeding the proper amount of food.  You should easily be able to feel your puppy’s ribs behind
its shoulders at mid-chest level.  If not, it is too fat.  You will need to reduce the amount of food.  If its
ribs, backbone, or hip bones stand out, then it is underweight.  You will need to increase the amount of
food you are supplying daily.
If you want to change food, you must introduce the new food slowly.  You should add a little of the new
food to each meal, slowly increasing the amount until they are finally eating only the new food.
You should feed your puppy three times a day – once in the morning, mid-day and again at dinner time.  
If your puppy is very small then leaving food down all day would be best.   This will prevent an empty
stomach which can cause your puppy to vomit bile.  You should try to keep your puppy’s feeding
schedule consistent.  Try to feed it at the same time and in the same place.  Make sure you clean out the
bowl after each meal to prevent bacteria buildup.  I suggest giving your puppy a small glob of the Nutri-
Cal twice a day as a preventative measure for the first week.
Snacks:   Snacks should be kept to a minimum to avoid causing your new puppy to become overweight.  
Most human food is not a good choice for feeding your puppy or dog.  I use Natural Balance roll Potato
& Duck.

~ Potty Training ~
A crate gives a dog a place to call its own.  Dogs are den animals, and once adjusted to the crate, they
will be happy to go there when they want to be left alone.

You should already have an exercise pen set up.  It should be small enough to fit the crate, toys, piddle
pad, and a food and water bowl.  By making the pen small enough to fit these items only, the puppy has
no choice but to use the pad.  If by chance, your puppy is one of the few that potties in its bed, food, or
water, don’t worry.  It will figure it out after a while.  

Once the pup is using the pad consistently, you can make the area larger.  You need to do this gradually
until you can open it up and allow the puppy to have access to one room while being supervised.  

Make sure you praise your puppy each time you actually see it use the piddle pad.
Choose a word or phrase to use, and only use this word or phrase.  This is important so that they learn
your commands.  Most puppies will need to potty within a few minutes of waking, playing, or drinking
water.

Once you have seen your puppy potty on the pad, you should let it out to play for 10-20 minutes after
which it should be returned to the pen.  You do not want to allow the puppy to be outside the pen for a
long period of time.  It is still a puppy and needs lots of rest, and just like a child, it doesn’t know when
to stop.  This piddle pad training has already begun prior to bringing your puppy home.

You will need to begin training your puppy to go outside to potty.  It is a good idea to use the both
piddle pad and outside train your puppy.  There will be times that you will be unable to be home in time
to take your puppy out.  Also, some puppies do not like to potty in the rain, snow, or extremely cold
weather.  For this training to be successful, you will need to be patient, understanding, and consistent.

You should make sure you take your puppy outside once it wakes from a nap or a night’s sleep. You
should also take it out after each meal, giving it some time between eating and going out.
You should have a spot chosen outside where you would like your puppy to go potty.  You will need to
take it to this spot to reinforce that this is the right spot where it can relieve itself.

You should begin to recognize signs that your puppy needs to go out.  Those signs may include the
following:
1) Restlessness, whimpering, turning in circles, or repeatedly sitting down.
2) Sniffing the floor, hunching over, circling and looking for a quiet spot.
3) After a time, your puppy may scratch at the door, stand in front of the door or bark to indicate it needs
to go out.

Each time your puppy goes potty either on the pad or outside in the appropriate spot, you need to
verbally praise it and provide a small treat to reinforce the behavior.  
Your puppy will inevitably have accidents during this training period.  If you catch it in the “act,” scold it
by saying “NO” in such a way that the puppy understands what it was doing was wrong and
immediately take it to the piddle pad or outside to the spot where it should be going.  This is not the
time to baby the pup.  You will only regret it in the future when training is prolonged and accidents
continue.  Never punish your puppy physically or by placing it in its crate.  The crate is its “safe zone.”  
This will only confuse your puppy.  If you do not catch it in the “act,” do not scold it.  Your puppy is
incapable of connecting what it has done (even a few minutes earlier) with your current displeasure.   
Simply clean up the mess making sure you use a product that will eliminate the odor.  Also make sure
the product you use is safe.  You can purchase this type of product at a pet store.

~ Training Ears to Stand ~
Shaving Ear
The ears should be kept shaved on pups as well as adults. Puppy’s ears are standing by the time they are
3 to 4 months old.  Some may take longer than others.  The larger the ear is the harder it is to get to
stand.  It can be done and is easier to do if the pup is under 6 months of age.  After that it is a lot harder
and may not work.
The first thing to do is shave the hair off the top one third of the ear.  Hair on the ears weighs the ear
down and keeps them from standing.  Use a small beard clipper you can get at K-mart, Wal-Mart, or
beauty supply stores.  
Look at the back of the ear picture a wide V.  Shave off all the hair on the inside of the V.  If the ears are
really long, start the V lower on the ear about half way down.
Turn the ear over and shave the inside of the ear exactly like you did the outside.  To trim the edges use
clipper cutting to a V point.












~ Taping Ear ~
After ear is shaved fold the ear in half toward the front like you were closing it up vertically (up and
down).  The ear is now sticking straight up in a point.  Use Medical tape to wrap around the ear.  2nd
option is to not fold ear in half and just wrap tape around lower bottom base of both ears.  I usually then  
tape top 1/2 of ear and pull across to 2nd ear to pull to give a nice ear set placement on top of head
instead of sticking out sides of head.    I have tried several types of tape over the years and find nothing
works as good as the Nexcare Flexible Clear Tape.  I usually use 1" on base of each ear and 3/4" to pull
both ears together on top of head.

If the pup gets it off it was wrapped to loose or not around enough.  Make sure the ear is straight up on
the dogs head and not flopping off to the side.  If it flops you may have to tape the 2 ears and then wrap
them together so they do not fall down. Leave this up for around 4 to 6 days. Take tape off clean and
shave the ear.  If the ear starts to fall you will have to re-tape and keep trying until it will stand.

~ Calcium Supplement ~
Your new puppy may arrive to you with or without his ears up. This will be determined by the age of
your puppy and the strength of his ears. Hopefully, the following information will help you understand
what is happening with his ears in relation to his age and growth.
The puppy’s baby teeth appear around 3 to 4 four weeks of age. This causes a tremendous draw on their
calcium levels. The last of the baby teeth, the premolars start to appear at about 6 weeks of age. The first
adult teeth start appearing at 4 to 5 months of age. In the meantime, all of his bones are growing at
spectacular rates also.  They should have all of his permanent teeth by 6 to 7 months of age.
The body will require more calcium to built cartilage and make the ears strong. During this period of
teething I use and recommend you use a calcium supplement such as Pet-Cal.  Pet-Cal is a palatable
calcium-phosphorus-vitamin D preparation for dogs. Pet Cal is an excellent calcium supplement for
nursing dogs. Add Pet-Cal to your breeding pet care.    

Never leave your puppy or dog in your car for any amount of time, even if the window is cracked.  If
you incur any problems with your puppies health call, your vet and your breeder immediately!

Vets are on call 24 hours a day if you need one and so am I.      

Enjoy your new puppy!